DorkVader wrote:
I see that the LEDs on the bottom boars aren't socketed. This is probably because of height restrictions, right? I'm not planning to go balanced for awhile yet, so I'll only need the one, and I'm pretty happy the option to socket is there.
if you use tall stand-offs (like I used) then even sockets will work. I just got tired of using them on the led chips. be sure on the orientation, first; but they are safe after you install them and won't blow or break (there are series R's that protect them).
it also looks more 'even' without those items in sockets

I don't want to ask too many specific questions (because it's not done) but I see there is a square-pad for the LED bargraph, so you don't put in in backwards or whatever, but I can't identify anything on the LED-bit itself distinguishing where the "pin1" (or whatever) is. Is it just which side the label is on (if it's only on one side?)
there's a notch on the side of the chip, running fully up and down the height of the chip. you'll see it when you do the build. it matches up with the silkscreening on the pcb, too.
those displays are in the dollar range and I first remember seeing them in blister packs on the shelves at radio shack. this was 20 or more years ago and its nice to see that mouser/etc still have them in stock and they are still being made.
that single yellow jumper will disable the light show if you ever want to cut down (slightly) on current draw or don't want to see the lights flashing for one reason or another. the flashing is very very quick, though and normally all but the 'pwr' led is off.